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      有關與交河共舞游記的隨筆

      隨筆 時間:2019-07-05 我要投稿
      【www.51cxty.com - 隨筆】

        在此之前,聽說吐魯番是難以見到雪的,不曾想自己卻有機會在吐魯番風花雪月了一場。

        昨天和今天,回味無窮,白天的微風里,裹滿了雪花,還有晚上,直至今晨仍然懸掛在頭頂的那輪銀光四射的圓月,讓人見證了完全不一樣的吐魯番,故城黃土、邊關寒月、河畔炊煙、天籟傳音、曠野激情……,如交響樂,讓我親歷了這段夢寐以求的奇跡,我不知如何去詮釋,這段終究會成為讓我刻骨銘心的記憶。

        用相機?用文字?這些都只是蒼白無力的載體,它們定然無能為力,不過最少可以保證,在我老到癡呆時,這段鮮為人知的經歷或許可以激活某些封存的記憶,讓失神的目光回光返照,讓時光捕捉到那偶爾的靈光一現,肯定會讓有些人,或者哪怕只一個人,有短暫的慰藉,這也絕對值得。

        我們的故事在上午、在今年第一顆雪花落地之前開始,卻在陽光明媚中結束,不知預兆什么?

        四輛小車里居然擠了二十好幾個人,加上駕照忘帶了,讓我提心吊膽了一陣,好在交河近在咫尺。

        喧鬧了幾個月的故城,此刻成了被遺棄的角落,當蜂擁而來的人群,肆無忌憚踐踏過后,那堆千瘡百孔的黃土是否在啜泣?還有那深埋在地下昔日的建造者是否在嚎啕?那些用支離破碎的殘局換來的充滿銅臭的所謂價值,難道敵得過后來者沾滿唾液的謾罵?可能從來無人思考過這個問題,而這種千夫所指的行徑還在歲月輪回中周而復始,除了心寒我無能為力。

        我們繞開這傷心地,讓愈來愈大的飄雪掩蓋這令人揪心的痛。其實我本不算多愁善感之人,但心底有時也會無端的涌出很多奇怪的念想來,諸如人活著到底為了什么,有人一生都在喋喋不休的詛咒整個世界,但在他行將就木時卻又對這充滿邪惡的世俗難舍難分,不知自己以后會不會這樣,但我更關注美好的東西,讓自己身邊盡可能的多一些繽紛的色彩,最少可以賞心悅目。有時一些離經叛道的念頭、怪異的想法充斥頭腦,令自己感到震驚無比,不知弗洛伊德的理論能否解釋這種現象。

        踩在這已能刻劃痕跡的雪地,我們一行人留下的雜亂無章的腳印,鬧哄哄的貼在白色的地面上,泛黃的駱駝刺叢中,躲滿了不斷增多的白絮,像一群調皮的小孩,在探頭探腦,充滿驚奇的注視著我們這些不速之客,群友音響(網名)攜帶一個小巧玲瓏的音樂播放器,無限給力的引亢高歌,在整座故城上空都撒滿了明快的節奏,聽說過一點關于這位大哥飽經風霜的故事,他是一位長期與病魔艱難抗爭的典范,令人動容,很想在心中為他來一個吶喊。

        冬天摧枯拉朽、勢不可擋,路旁的花草樹木早就放棄了抵抗,一個個丟盔棄甲,枯枝敗葉撒落滿地,零亂不堪,在自然界無比的威力前,再堅強的斗士,也只能俯首帖耳,因為任何抗爭終究只能是徒勞。雪地里,一個小孩,一群綿羊,一片枯草,一叢楊林,還有一片空空如也的葡萄地,葡萄藤早已識趣的躲藏起來,只有稀疏的架子兀自堅挺,這難道不是一幅動靜相宜的油畫么?只是這畫境,太過蕭條,讓人無心欣賞。徐徐微風吹拂,沒有了樹葉,枯枝堅定得象石頭,地上的黃草象零亂的頭發,蓬蓬松松,丟棄得滿地都是。散亂的草叢象白發蒼蒼老者的頭發,被染成了金黃的顏色,羊群此刻在津津有味的品嘗著它們曾經不屑一顧的草根或黃葉,間或一只羊抬起頭,有意無意的,仿佛勾起了心中的往事。

        雪愈下愈大,一會兒染白了故城斜坡,一抬頭,又看到一堆倒塌的老城遺址,再次刺痛著我。人的命運也其實與其毫無二致,太多的愁情煩意總是把人折騰得反復無常,功名利祿不過是流星一現。在不經意間流走年華,老去容顏,最后枯萎身體,失去靈魂。每個人都是在自己的哭聲中來到世界,又在別人的哭聲中離開,來去匆匆,永遠也擺脫不了的宿命。大千世界,有人翻云覆雨,立萬人中央,自鳴得意,緣于私自名利;蕓蕓眾生,有人造福大眾,藏匿人海之中,悄然無聲,皆因公平正義。盡管一樣的歸宿,卻完全不一樣的人生,對二者,我從不妄下定論,只是人有品格高低之分,從無爭議。只愿天下之人在終老時不覺孤獨便好。

        是不是有些過分的老氣橫秋,還是忘卻這些吧,否則太過悲情。快看這兩個小姑娘,她們臉上的燦爛才是我們想要的未來,朝氣蓬勃的精氣神,鏗鏘有力的腳步,故城的破落與凋零的草木也無法將其遮掩。 還有這邊身著七彩顏色服裝和踩著歡快腳步的朋友們,讓人對生活充滿無盡的向往。 雪地上的那一張合影將每個人的喜悅表達的淋漓盡致,與“快樂一族”旗幟的標志恰到好處的一致。 更有美女們的一顰一笑,尤其是回眸瞬間,那絕對是最靚麗的一道風景。

        這里的河流平緩而窄小,河床上是一層厚厚的枯草,行走在河谷里,有如在地毯上的感覺。三三兩兩的馬匹在這里嬉戲,再過些日子,枯草也將不復存在,所以它們絕對不會錯過這種屈指可數野外美餐了。對我們的不請自來,這些馬似乎并未露不快神情,還在我們面前顯擺一番,有兩匹馬,甚至還開始了一小段距離的比賽。 這淺水中的一小片綠色,完全無視冰雪的存在,兀自面不改色的駐立水中,與旁邊的敗草形成了令人震憾的對比,給了我們一絲始料不及的驚喜。

        最動人心魄的當數這個小潭中的景觀了,一條小水簾飛流直下,與水簾并排的是一根根倒立的冰柱,晶瑩剔透,附著在懸空的潭壁上,水晶般的色彩,密布潭頂上空,底下是一個如蓮花臺的冰盆,冰盆堅若磐石。這種奇特的景觀給我們攝人心魄的感受。大自然真是能工巧匠,用那無形的手,創造出非同凡響的藝術大觀。我們可以想象得到,這種奇特景觀應該是這樣形成的,氣溫下降后,小潭水面開始結冰,由于水的沖涮,濺起的水花在水簾附近冰面上不斷堆積,固化成冰,隨著浪花的不斷噴出,水簾周圍的冰層越來越厚,最后筑成一個圓盤,將水簾嚴嚴實實包圍在中央,呈現出水簾刺穿冰盆的奇景,其實水簾未曾穿透冰盆,因為水跌落處根本無法結冰。 冰盆表面是乳白色的冰球,大大小小,高高低低,遍布在冰盆的周圍,像溢出盤的珍珠,亦如水簾激起的奇形怪狀的浪花,令人流連忘返。

        爬上山坡,山頂已經完全白茫茫一片,這在吐魯番絕對是難得一見的,怎么能錯過這么壯美的雪景,在雪地上留下一個影像當然是踏雪而至的全體群友之愿望,大家極盡所能、各顯神通的擺出各種造型,看這邊三個,這個跳躍的動作,多么的優美。 還有這邊一對組合,動作更夸張。待我們的興奮完后,雪地上只留下我們的串串足跡,隨著我們前進的方向繼續蔓延開來,盡管有些雜亂無章,但這真真切切是快樂的符號、開心的印記。

        下午兩點前,我們找到了理想的休息地,那是河床上的一片楊樹林,旁邊則是叢生而出的蘆葦蕩,而此時飄雪也識趣的停了下來,大家安頓好行裝,開始在林子里收集木材,多出的人手,當然不會錯過這片金黃的蘆葦蕩,這些高過頭頂的蘆葦在白雪的映襯下,泛著金色的光芒,微風吹過,似濁濤翻滾,煞是好看,五顏六色著裝的人站在中間,效果絕佳,是取景的上等場所。

        這個季節,楊樹林里,枯枝隨處可見,我們很快就收集到了所需的燃料,不到十分鐘功夫,幾堆火焰同時燃起,看,老兵肯定是個老把式,輕車熟路的樣子,隨便幾下,這火苗就上竄下跳了; 還有這邊,黃旗飄飄也不甘示弱,鍋子底那團火也是虎虎生風,他不無得意的擺弄出勝利的姿勢,儼然他才是真正的高手,仿佛要解釋什么才是地地道道的爐火純青; 旁邊眾人在集體鼓搗著一堆篝火,不一會兒,大家個個笑靨如花,宣示著已經大功告成,開始圍著火堆烤火。

        今天的交河,注定是屬于我們二十幾個人天地,午餐豐盛得不可思議,面條、肉片、丸子、青菜、馕餅,應有盡有,琳瑯滿目,甚至連湖南人愛吃的辣椒醬也在其中,完全出乎我的意料。

        飽餐后的節目豐富多彩,有趣味接力、卷筒車、騎馬舞、雙人舞和男女對唱、獨唱,在巨大的音箱伴音渲染中,雪地、河灘成了我們歡樂的海洋,交河也許從未如此熱鬧過,真佩服老兵、英子等人對活動組織的精心盡力,光道具就準備了這么多,單說這個巨大的音箱,應在十斤以上,一路背來十幾公里夠辛苦的,但歡樂總是與付出結伴同行,我們的隊員們在付出的同時收獲到的是喜悅和強健的體魄,這正是徒步活動成為越來越吸引人的原因。

        若不是時間的催促,我們的活動定可無止無休,釋放激情,成就歡樂,今天,這里的一切由我們主宰。歡樂的時光總是短暫,伴著我們回程的腳步,太陽意外的露出笑臉,給我們余興未了的喜悅涂上了金粉的顏色,腳步顯得愈加輕快。

        經過故城北面,情形一樣令人堪憂,塌落的舊城遺址在山腳下變成一堆粉碎了的碎土,我知道,時間會帶走這里的一切,我們也無一例外。忽然看見一只大鳥從我背后沖天而起,從我面前一閃而過,我趕緊抓起鏡頭捕捉這精彩的瞬間,這只孤傲的蒼鷹,一聲長嘯,盤旋在故城的上空,這個強大無比的神鳥,在訴說什么?為自己形單影只悲鳴?還是為故城的凋零嘆息?但愿不要影響到大家的心情。把它當成一場風花雪月的故事,一定成為自己浪漫的回憶。

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